The Worm Factory® 360 requires very little maintenance. Worms will be happy as long they are fed, have enough moisture, and are at a temperature between 40 and 80 degrees. We recommend checking up on your worms once a week. Gently dig into your worm bedding and see how your worms are doing. Your worms should have a moist body and be actively moving around your food scraps. Checking once a week will help address with any problems that may arise (moisture level, fruit flies, worm health).

Not unless it specifically states that worms are part of the product purchase. If you didn't purchase worms at checkout or didn't see and option to purchase worms, visit www.findworms.com to search a list of worm farms.

The Worm Factory® allows you to recycle your food and paper scraps, saving them from the landfill. Landfills produce gases during the decomposition process that are harmful to our environment and the ozone layer. By doing your part to recycle, you will be saving our environment and saving money at the same time. Recycling will reduce the amount of garbage you throw away which reduces your garbage bill. Since you are turning trash into nutrient rich compost for your garden, you save on the cost of fertilizers and soil amendments. Adding compost to your soil also increases its water holding capacity, saving water as well. The Worm Factory® 360 is an investment that will pay for itself many times over.

Worms need to be protected from freezing, direct rain and sun. They work best at temperatures of 50-75 degrees. Worms are cold blooded so when temperatures go below 40 degrees they stop working, huddle together to keep warm and will freeze if exposed to freezing temperatures for extended periods of time. Over 85 degrees they get too hot, dehydrate and die.

Worms prefer the dark. Their skin has photocells that are light sensitive. They will burrow into the compost when exposed to light.

We recommend feeding your worms a diet of 50% food scraps and 50% fiber and paper scraps. This will give your finished compost balanced nutrient levels. But worms will eat virtually anything, so don't worry too much about what you feed them. If you have more food scraps than fiber, they will be fine. You do not have to follow an exact recipe. Give them what you have on hand but, do not give them meat or dairy, these items may kill your worms. The goal is to recycle what you would usually throw away. You don't have to buy food for your worms.

Do not add meat, meat products, foods that contain meat products like dry dog or cat food (check ingredients), dairy products, spicy foods and foods with high salt content. Do not add foods that generate heat like yeast or manure or compost that generates heat like chicken manure or mushroom compost. Do not add pine, cedar or fir sawdust. Hardwood sawdust is ok.

Don't worry about feeding your worms every day; it will take awhile for them to break down the food in the bin. Some people feed them a handful a week; some people feed them a handful a day. If there is too much food, you can simply add another tray. Worms can survive up to two weeks without any additional food.

Standard Worm Factory®:

• 16" x 16" x 21"H (approx.)
• Flat lid
• Small base w/ 2pc collection tray
• 3 tray base unit
• Expandable to 7 trays

Worm Factory® 360:

• 18" x 18" x 25"H (approx.)
• Domed lid
• 1pc base/collection tray w/ worm ladder, taller legs
• 4 tray base unit
• Expandable to 7 trays

Yes, as long as it is a Worm Factory® composter, the trays are the same size and shape and will work on any Worm Factory® base.

Your first tray will take 1-3 months to finish processing. It could be faster or slower depending on how many worms you start with and how often you feed them. After the first tray is processed, the process will become faster.

No, if maintained properly, your worm bin will not smell. The keys to maintaining an odorless composter is moisture control and ventilation. Anaerobic bacteria is the main cause of odor. If you don't allow proper ventilation these bacteria will grow inside your unit, bringing odor with them.

When your first tray is filled to the top, it is time to add a second tray. All you have to do to set up the second tray is add shredded paper and/or leaves to use as bedding for the worms. Then, add a handful of food to a corner of the tray to entice the worms to migrate to the next level. It may take a full week for the full population to make it to the next level. The worms will move in between both trays to finish working on the food scraps in the first level.

No. Start the second tray when the first one has been completely filled up. The idea is to get a rotation of trays all at a different stage of composting.

The Worm Factory® and Worm Factory® 360 can both support up to 7 trays.

The general rule of thumb is worms can eat half their weight in food per day! This means that if you start with one pound of worms, they can eat a half pound of food per day. As your worm population grows, they will be able to process more food at a faster rate.

Sometimes the worms are not too excited about leaving their home tray and traveling upwards. First, give them some time to migrate up. If you have just set up your second tray, give them at least two weeks to migrate and acclimate to their new "home tray". If after two weeks your worms haven't made the move, you need to take a look at the second tray. There could be a food product that you have added that they don't like. Dairy products, meats or citrus products are items you should avoid. The bedding could also be too wet or too dry. If the bedding is too dry, add some water or green food scraps (fruit, vegetables etc). If the bedding is too wet, add some shredded paper or other carbon-based food scraps (corn cobs, coffee grounds etc.) to soak up excess moisture. A careful balance of food, moisture and temperature is important to keep your worms happy and healthy.

Yes, worms will reproduce inside the unit according to their space limitations. The worms will regulate their population so you don't have to worry about overpopulation in your bin. Your worm population will double every three months. Their reproduction is also an indicator of the environment they are living in. If the worms aren't happy with their environment, they will not reproduce. If they are happy, moist, and have access to food, they will reproduce, allowing them to process your food and paper scraps faster.

Yes.

Moisture control is a big part of managing your worm bin. We recommend taking a handful of bedding and compost in your hand and squeezing it tightly in your fist. In doing this, if you find that more than a couple drops of water comes out, you have too much moisture. Ideally, your bedding should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge. But don't worry, there is an easy fix. If you find your unit is too moist, stir in some dry shredded paper or cardboard. This will soak up some of that moisture and return it to ideal conditions.

Watch the following video to learn how to properly manage the moisture level of your Worm Factory®

No. Worms live in the ground. We walk on them every step we take. Pick up a brick or a piece of wood and what do we find? Worms! It's important that the worms get oxygen and that is one of the improved features of the Worm Factory® 360. The worms actually facilitate the movement of air through the compost as they burrow and form tunnels. The design of the 360 allows air to be drawn from below up and through the bin and out the lid.

If the composter becomes too wet it hinders airflow. Providing airflow through the bottom and top as the design of the Worm Factory® 360 does help to alleviate this problem.

It depends on whether ants are a problem where you live. If you do have a problem with ants you could devise a way to place the feet of the worm composter in water. This would keep the ants out.

The full 16 page manual is not available online or in "PDF" form because of copywrite. You can purchase the manual or the DVD for $4.00 each including postage.

Your Worm Factory® comes with all the materials you need to get started and manage a successful worm composting operation. Watch this video to see how it unpacks - sometimes it's easy to miss certain parts because we are such eco-friendly, efficient packers!

You can go to www.findworms.com and search a list of growers throughout the US and abroad. We recommend 1 pound of red wigglers to start your worm composter. You can also have worms shipped directly to your door when purchased from our store.

Worm compost makes nutrients readily available to plants. When compost is mixed with water, it has the ability to hold many positively-charged mineral ions, which can then be taken up by the plants. Also, as worms process (digest) the food scraps, the nutrients in the food are changed into forms which can then be used by plants. Worm compost is rich in natural humus, nitrogen, potash, phosphorous, and calcium, all essential for healthy plant growth.

When people think of earthworms they usually mean nightcrawlers which can be 8-10" long and 1/2" in diameter. These types of worms differ from red wigglers, although both may be referred to as earthworms since they are both found in the earth.

Nightcrawlers are soil dwellers so they like to burrow several feet below the surface. In contrast, red wigglers are surface dwellers and prefer to live within the top 6" of the soil.

We recommend using red wigglers, also know as eisenia fetida. They adapt well to the compost bin, are extremely efficient eaters and reproducers.

Composting worms do not eat the garbage directly. Food must first be broken down by various bacteria until it is small enough to be consumed. Once in the worms digestive system the particles get crushed and broken down more before enzymes in the in the worms intestines do the actual digesting and turn the waste into nutrient rich castings.

Worms will thrive on just about any organic matter, but for a composting bin a few items should be avoided: meat and dairy should never be added, and citrus and onion should be avoided.

Worms can eat up to half their weight in food per day. The Worm Factory® was designed for a family of 1-4 people. With additional trays, the capacity of the unit can be increased to handle the waste of more people.

Worms have no teeth so they eat food by coating it with their saliva, making it soft and easy to digest. After the food is swallowed, it passes through their esophagus, crop, and then to the gizzard where small amounts of sediment (sand and soil taken in with the food) grind it up. The food then travels through the intestine, which is almost as long as the worm itself, and is broken down further into digested castings which can be harvested for compost.

It's recommended that you start your worm bin with a pound, which is roughly 800-1000 individual worms.

Worms are generally low maintenance creatures, but there are a handful of things to watch out for.

Moisture is an important factor in a worm bin. Since worms breath through their skin the bin cannot be too wet or the worms may drown, and if it's too dry they won't be able to breath. The material in a worm bin should be moist to the touch, but not dripping wet. If the bin seems too moist, mix in some shredded newspaper to absorb some of that excess moisture, and if it's too dry, add some newspaper that has been soaked in water and wrung out.

Worms are cold blooded creatures, and cannot tolerate extreme temperatures. Worms must never be allowed to freeze, or sit in direct sunlight on warm days. Worms need to be between 40 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit to survive, and will be most happy and active at about room temperature.

The baby red wigglers look just like smaller versions of full grown worms, but are lighter in color.

Red wigglers, like other earthworms, are hermaphroditic and have both sets of reproductive organs. However, two worms are still required for reproduction to take place. Worms reproduce by lining up side by side and joining the clitellums, which contain the reproductive organs, and exchange sperm. The worms then go their separate ways and secrete cocoons which contain several eggs.

It will take about three weeks for a cocoon to mature and it will hatch into several baby worms. The worms will reach mature breeding age in 60-90 days and under perfect conditions can produce a cocoon every 7-10 days.

Worms can be shipped in a box with some bedding material. As long as they're kept out of extreme temperatures the worms will be fine in transit for a few days. It's important to have your worms new home set up and ready when they arrive in the mail to minimize the shock of being in the box. It may take the worms about a week to fully adjust to their new environment after transport.

Raising worms is very inexpensive. Feeding them is relatively free and they provide an organic fertilizer for your house plants and small garden. As a matter of fact, raising worms, in a household setting, can actually save you money.

Many people believe that a worm cut in half will grow into two worms. This is not true; one worm will always be one worm, although worms do have amazing regenerative abilities and can grow back large portions of their bodies if they get cut off.

Basically anything that causes the worms "stress" can result in them forming balls of worms. They huddle to protect themselves. Things that can cause this are:

• Too cold - less than 40 degrees
• Too warm - over 80 degrees
• Too wet - when a bin is too wet it will start to smell, the worms will move away from the moisture
• Sudden changes in food or food they don't like

Make drastic changes in the food supply gradually. Review what you have been doing and the conditions in and surrounding the worm composter. As long as the worms aren't "jumping ship" you're OK. Try to pin point the problem and make adjustments.

Worms do not breakdown the food directly. It is the bacteria and microbes in the compost that breakdown the food into small enough pieces for the worms to swallow it. It is then broken down in their digestive system. The smaller you break down the food before putting it in the composter the faster the compost process. It just depends on how much time you want to spend. Be most concerned about hard foods like carrots. These will remain in the tray for long periods without breaking down unless you chop them up good or cook them for a short time.

Don't use plastic or wax coated paper, card board, food containers or containers coated with metallics or aluminum foil. Paper is made from wood pulp so there is some nutrient value. The main reason to use paper in a worm composter is to absorb moisture and to maintain a proper carbon to nitrogen ratio. Shiny/glossy paper is made by adding clay. Clay is a natural soil element. These kinds of paper take longer to compost. Most printers use soy based inks. Worms have the amazing ability to cleanse the soil of contaminants and bad bacteria. They do this in conjunction with the other living microorganisms in the compost. Whatever paper you decide to add to your compost bin, it's good to remember to maintain a 50/50 "greens" to "browns" (i.e. food scraps to paper waste) ratio.

If you are a real purist the best thing to do is check with the source and find out how the paper is processed and how much if any chemical residues are present in the paper. Decide what you are comfortable with using based on your own conscience and principles. You can read more about the benefits of adding paper to your worm compost here.